Damascus November 19, 2008
Posted by bookncurls in Middle East.Tags: Damascus
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Well, I wasn’t exactly expecting Damascus to win in the poll but, to date it’s the city that people have voted they would want to know more about. May I, therefore, present to you Damascus through my interactions with three people.
My grandma, John Wreford, and a CASA student.
Grandma: My first interactions growing up in relation to Damascus was through the beautiful copper and emroidered linens of my grandparents’ home which I lived in for many years. Of course, no mention about copper is complete without a lively story of how my grandma got those things in and out of Syria. Syria holds this semi-mysterious quality because the country is forbidden to anyone with an Israeli stamp in their passport. And of course, my grandparents lived in Israel. She doesn’t let that get in the way of her chances of hitting the markets in Damascus. My grandparents go to see where Paul went and Arabraham grew up and the ancient kingdoms that left their mark–Persia, Rome, Greece, and the Arabs. So, Damascus holds a Biblical/ancient quality for me.
John Wreford: He is an amazing photographer living in Damascus capturing the Middle East for high end journals and such. If you haven’t seen much of the Middle East or enjoy stunning images, check out his website. http://www.johnwreford.com
CASA student: My Arabic students and I got to know a former BYU student who is now studying in Damascus in the CASA program. From him I’ve learned a little about a different side of Damascus–the more day to day living. One of the points that particularly stands out to me is that he plays off and on with a soccer team there. For people outside the United States soccer represents the core of masculinity–the way we see football or basketball. It’s interesting to hear bits and pieces from him about playing soccer late into the night and struggles for recognition becauase he is an American. He talks about working with Iraqi refugees, hanging out with friends on the weekends, etc. In other words–people live there. With all the layers of history and it’s central place in Syrian politics, it’s a place where people continue their stories.
Finally, there were anti-American protests not too long ago after the US crossed into Syrian territory uninvited. Traditionally Syria is a place that resists the incursion of the West. And that is my 2 cents about Damascus.
Middle Eastern Cities Poll November 17, 2008
Posted by bookncurls in Middle East.Tags: Baghdad, Cairo, Casablanca, Cities, Damascus, Dubai, Jerusalem, Middle East
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Syria:Damascus & Aleppo March 28, 2009
Posted by bookncurls in A Comment, Middle East.Tags: Aleppo, Damascus, Ewa Wasilewska, Islamists, Middle East, Peter Sluglett, Syria, University of Utah
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“They all lived next door to each other and they didn’t give a d—. They thought it was perfectly normal.” –Peter Sluglett, a British historian at the University of Utah talking today about Muslims, Christians, and Jews living together in Aleppo, Syria.
Some holes were blown into my conception of Syria at my Middle Eastern cities class from the University of Utah dedicated today to Damascus and Aleppo.
My misconception was that Syria’s wounded pride over Israel’s annexation of the Golan Heights and the West meddling in its affairs drove it to hang out with some bad friends so to speak and be rebellious.
Today I learned that Syria knows it can’t win a war against Israel so it supports bad behavior on several fronts to have bargaining chips at the negotiating table with Israel. I may not agree with every detail but I can understand the logic.
The real hole was blown when they said that although Syria funds radical Islam abroad, it doesn’t tolerate it at home. They have suppressed and even rounded up radical Islamists in Damascus. Apparently it’s getting harder to deal with radical Islamists at home, though, because they are slowly infiltrating the bureaucracy. I appreciate the fact that Syria sees this as a problem.
I saw some super cool pics and videos of Damascus today ancient and modern. If you’re interested check out this site from a Polish archeologist, Ewa Wasilewska: http://ewas.us/syria.htm . We also saw a recently made documentary but I can’t find it online.
In conclusion, I like Syria a little more today than I did yesterday.