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Jerusalem: Windows April 11, 2009

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Where would you re-visit if you lived in Jerusalem for a year?

Four windows draw me back every time.

1.  The Chagall Windows (Windows in a unique place)

It’s not just that the windows are beautiful or interesting.  It’s where they’re located that ultimately draws me back.  In Ein Kerem, a suburb of Jerusalem, is a large hospital called Hadassah Medical Center.  Hadassah is another name for Esther in the Old Testament who risking her life saved her people.  The Israeli staff there are in the business of saving lives both Jews and Arabs.

It is in the hospital that the Chagall Windows are located in a simply constructed synagogue.  I like the peace and beauty of the town, the underlying message of a hospital being that life is important, and the stories on the windows themselves.  This past summer I was left alone in the synagogue with the narration of the story of each blessing depicted on the stained glass windows to the 12 tribes of Israel.  The woman who unlocked the door to the synagogue asked me if I’d seen them before.  I have to admit my face dusted over with a little emotion.  And before I could say yes, she seemed to know and quickly left.  Replicas of these windows in ceramic were given to me by my grandma.

2.  Neot Kedumim: The Biblical Landscape Reserve in Israel (Window to the Old and New Testament past)

Ok.  So it’s not exactly in Jersualem but a few miles outside there is a huge nature reserve recreating the agricultural images of the Bible.  Imagine not just reading these words but seeing and standing in an ancient vineyard in Israel (Isaiah 5:1-7).

“Now will I sing to my wellbeloved a song of my beloved touching his vineyard.  My wellbeloved hath a vineyard in a very fruitful hill: And he fenced it, and gathered out the stones thereof, and planted it with the choicest vine, and built a tower in the midst of it, and also made a winepress therein: and he looked that it should bring forth grapes, and it brought forth wild grapes.”

These were words on a page but not at Neot Kedumim.  You see the vineyard and the tower and the grape vines and now it’s different.

3.  Church of the Sisters of Zion (Window to the Christian past)

A stone here and a cave there.  Israel is full of places monumenting a significant event.  To me it’s not important where something happened but the reverence you can feel anywhere.  But as far as making the human element of the Christian story real, it happened for me in the Church of the Sisters of Zion.  You can walk underneath the church where Roman soldiers kept base.  At one place you can see the floor where soldiers etched out games and cast lots in the stone as they awaited their next duty.  For some reason this little evidence of humanity, not just a worn stone, made the story vivid.  You can find the accounts in the biblical gospels (Matt. 27, Mark 14, Luke 22-23, and John 19).

“[The soldiers] said therefore among themselves, Let us not rend [his garment], but let us cast lots for it, whose it shall be: that the scripture might be fulfilled which saith, They parted my raiment among them, and for my vesture they cast lots.  These things therefore the soldiers did. (John 19:24).”

4.  Islamic Library in the Al-Haram Al-Sharif (Window to the Islamic past).

Careful Arab scholars preserved both the Islamic, Roman, and Greek philosophies, medical discoveries, and histories of the past on scrolls.  So while the Western world’s scholarly records were being luted and destroyed by barbarians from the north, the Arab world held our link to the past in their hands.  We are lucky to have been able to retrieve them again from our Arab allies giving us a kick start into the modern world.

While on the Arabic program we gave the Islamic library located near the Dome of the Rock, a copy of one of the Islamic Translation series.  In the library alcove old texts written on scrolls are stacked on shelves and fitted into compartments.  I felt a deep respect and honor for the glorious Islamic past and its contribution to the world as I looked at those scrolls.  (For further reading on this topic, you can find information in many historical studies.  Here is one to start you off.  History of the Arabs; Revised: 10th Edition by Philip Hitti.  Look at chapter 27.)

Are there places that make history come alive for you?

See other posts in the series:

Jerusalem: Romance

Jerusalem: Snapshots

Cairo PIV: Reconciliation

Part III: “Cairo as an Arabic Student: Mosques and Trains”

Cairo Part II: “Cairo for the first time with an Argentine Flair”

Cairo Part I: “Pre-Cairo, My Aunty”

Damascus

Middle Eastern Cities Poll

Israel’s Ceasefire January 17, 2009

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I took down this post because I decided I would rather not get in the middle of it.  As I’ve mentioned before.  I have had good experiences with both peoples.  It is hard for me to watch conflict happening in Israel/Palestine.

Israeli incursions into Gaza January 3, 2009

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The Israeli-Palestinian conflict is complex.  Moderate Israelis and Palestinians like each other.  It was refreshing to see this again this summer when I was there.  Many can speak each other’s languages and interact with tolerance. When the Israeli army causes the death toll to rise among Palestinians many Israelis become disenchanted with the military.  Many moderate Israelis I have read about and talked to feel that peace must be achieved by a delicate balance of protecting their lives and working with Palestinians to attain the best win-win situation possible.  There are many moderate Palestinians who live near and work with Israelis who are also very ammenable to working with Israelis to live co-existently.

The sad part of the situation, though, is that there are enough radicals on both the Israeli and Palestinian side who make peace difficult and compromise almost impossible.  Israel currently is asking a lot of the Gazans.  They want to cut off electricity and basic necessities while at the same time telling them to stop fighting.  The Gazans are in a lose-lose situation.  Many innocent people are dieing.  This morning Gazans were given leaflets signed by the Israeli military commander to leave the area.  Where should they go?  Gaza is already mostly comprised of refugee camps.  I hope the crisis in Gaza will end soon and that both sides will find peace and safety for their homes and families.

City of Oranges: An Intimate History of Arabs and Jews in Jaffa November 15, 2008

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City of Oranges is a book by Adam LeBor that I am reading for my Middle Eastern Cities course at the University of Utah.  So here’s the funny part.  I take this class, right, so I can learn about other places in the Middle East besides Israel/Palestine.  (I have now lived in Jerusalem for almost a year at three different times.)  Of course Jerusalem is on the list of cities we are studying but there were other cities as well.  So I get really excited to learn about the rest of the Middle East and then they hand me the books for the course and I discover that City of Oranges is a book about Jaffa, Palestine/Israel.  (I’m going to use both terms because I’m in a pretty precarious position politically with either word.)  Yes, there are other books but not as long and extensive. But, I am pleasantly suprised to find this book to be rather neutral between the Arab and Jewish sides and I highly reccomend it.

What is almost incomprehensible to me is that although Israel has been a part of my life since I was born, I’ve always seen the Middle East as my grandparents’ and extended family thing.  My thing was Asia–I grew up in Japan and lived in Taiwan respectivly for 7  years.

My first trip to Israel was at 18 mostly to see all the places my grandparents always talked about.  (They directed the Jerusalem Center for Near Eastern Studies on Mount Scopus through Brigham Young University off and on for several years and took many tours to the area.) Every year on my birthday my grandma tells me the story of how she called all the hospitals to find out where my mom had me so she could wish my mother well before heading for Tel Aviv.

I remember loading on the bus after my 5 months in Jerusalem at 18 to go home.  Lots of the students were being nostalgic, a couple had tears in their eyes.  I looked back at the city and said to myself, “That was nice.  Now it’s time for a trip to Asia.”  I had made the trip to see my grandparents’ legacy.  Now it was over.

But a year and a half later, people kept telling me I should go back to study Arabic there.  What in the bazookas, I thought?  I can’t take another spiceless/American food meal at the Jerusalem Center.  But feeling like it was important, I went again.  The second time I left the Middle East from Cairo, sick, tired and happy it was over.  I went to Taiwan a month later.

So I went back to Jerusalem again this past summer for a Palestinian view point of the land.  By now Jerusalem isn’t so much a tourist place for me as it is a second home.  People know me and my grandparents and my aunt and uncle and my cousins.  I speak a little Arabic now–ok, I even teach Arabic.  It’s a much different place than when I was 18.

And even though I’m trying to learn about the rest of the Middle East–and I am to a certain extent–I am reading a book called City of Oranges and learning about how Arabs and Jews interact in Israel/Palestine.  And today, I went to my class and was presented with yes, yet another trip to Israel.  I probably won’t go on this one, though…although it would be cool.  This trip would be a Jewish tour….hmmmm.  No.  Impossible.  But the more I walk away from it, the more it seems to come back into my life.  Maybe the Middle East/Palestine/Israel isn’t just my grandparents’ thing.  As obvious as it may seem to anyone else, I’m having a hard time admitting that.

More Pics August 12, 2008

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Pictures August 12, 2008

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Palestine July 26, 2008

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This has been an incredible trip.  It’s my third time to Israel/Palestine.  I get to speak Arabic every day.  The Palestinians I have met here. We’ve had a few close shaves with attacks.  (We were in a US Consulate van going back to the Consulate in Jerusalem when the officials in the car all got a text at the same time advising them to avoid an area just in front of us because of reports of shots fired.  We turned around immediately and found out later that the gun shots were to stop a man in a bulldozer who had ran into a bus and a car just ahead of us.  We were slightly delayed leaving our friends in Bethlehem so we were safe.)

However, on the positive side of things, we have been interacting with Palestinian youth in Bethlehem and Jerusalem.  They have been so much fun.  They are just like teenagers at home.  The other part I really enjoy is that not all of them speak English.  They are putting me with a lot of kids who don’t speak English and I can feel myself improving so much.

Actually, I do understand a lot more than people realize.  For me speaking is so difficult.  I like to listen to other people talk intead of have to sound so broken.  ….BUT…. it’s coming and I’m being forced to say things so things are coming out.  It makes me so happy because I need to speak to the students in Arabic when I teach next year.

Oh….and I bought the coolest Islamic tiles with common Arabic sayings on them.  Very excited.  It will be my seuvnenier (spelling??) for this trip.

Palestine/Israel July 7, 2008

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I’m going to Israel after all. Relief International really wanted us to get a chance to go so they changed the dates to fit everyone’s schedule and the students are still all able to go as well. I can’t wait. This is even better than if we would have gone at the beginning of the summer. I was coming out of school last year very tired.

Today: Cancellings and Flying Rubber June 16, 2008

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Days like these aren’t the kind of days you remember fondly.  About mid afternoon I found out that the trip to Israel would be postponed to a time I cannot go and even then they are still not sure if the Consulate in Jerusalem will approve it.  Either way, I am not going.  I already had that cancel feeling over the weekend so I wasn’t completely suprised. 

But it doesn’t end there.  As I was driving up to help with my mom’s yard and my other cousins’ packing, the rubber from the tire of a dump truck flew off and hit my car square on.  I was in the middle lane of the freeway and was lucky to be in enough control not to swerve into the other lanes.  I ran over the tire and will have some body work on my car to take care of.

And, apparently the theme of this summer is “unexpected vacations”.  I am now unexpectedly spending the week at my mom’s to get the car fixed and will be thinking up new adventures for this summer.  And while it could be a discouraging day, I feel that sometimes when things happen unexpectedly, you also get to do things you wouldn’t have expected.  I’m looking forward to the new surprises of the summer. 

Thanks to everyone who has been so nice to support me in going on the trip.  Everything will work out.