Jerusalem: Windows April 11, 2009
Posted by bookncurls in A Comment, Middle East.Tags: Arab Scholars, Chagall Windows, Church of the Sisters of Zion, Islam, Islamic Translation Series, Israel, Jerusalem, Middle East, Neot Kedumim
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Where would you re-visit if you lived in Jerusalem for a year?
Four windows draw me back every time.
1. The Chagall Windows (Windows in a unique place)
It’s not just that the windows are beautiful or interesting. It’s where they’re located that ultimately draws me back. In Ein Kerem, a suburb of Jerusalem, is a large hospital called Hadassah Medical Center. Hadassah is another name for Esther in the Old Testament who risking her life saved her people. The Israeli staff there are in the business of saving lives both Jews and Arabs.
It is in the hospital that the Chagall Windows are located in a simply constructed synagogue. I like the peace and beauty of the town, the underlying message of a hospital being that life is important, and the stories on the windows themselves. This past summer I was left alone in the synagogue with the narration of the story of each blessing depicted on the stained glass windows to the 12 tribes of Israel. The woman who unlocked the door to the synagogue asked me if I’d seen them before. I have to admit my face dusted over with a little emotion. And before I could say yes, she seemed to know and quickly left. Replicas of these windows in ceramic were given to me by my grandma.
2. Neot Kedumim: The Biblical Landscape Reserve in Israel (Window to the Old and New Testament past)
Ok. So it’s not exactly in Jersualem but a few miles outside there is a huge nature reserve recreating the agricultural images of the Bible. Imagine not just reading these words but seeing and standing in an ancient vineyard in Israel (Isaiah 5:1-7).
“Now will I sing to my wellbeloved a song of my beloved touching his vineyard. My wellbeloved hath a vineyard in a very fruitful hill: And he fenced it, and gathered out the stones thereof, and planted it with the choicest vine, and built a tower in the midst of it, and also made a winepress therein: and he looked that it should bring forth grapes, and it brought forth wild grapes.”
These were words on a page but not at Neot Kedumim. You see the vineyard and the tower and the grape vines and now it’s different.
3. Church of the Sisters of Zion (Window to the Christian past)
A stone here and a cave there. Israel is full of places monumenting a significant event. To me it’s not important where something happened but the reverence you can feel anywhere. But as far as making the human element of the Christian story real, it happened for me in the Church of the Sisters of Zion. You can walk underneath the church where Roman soldiers kept base. At one place you can see the floor where soldiers etched out games and cast lots in the stone as they awaited their next duty. For some reason this little evidence of humanity, not just a worn stone, made the story vivid. You can find the accounts in the biblical gospels (Matt. 27, Mark 14, Luke 22-23, and John 19).
“[The soldiers] said therefore among themselves, Let us not rend [his garment], but let us cast lots for it, whose it shall be: that the scripture might be fulfilled which saith, They parted my raiment among them, and for my vesture they cast lots. These things therefore the soldiers did. (John 19:24).”
4. Islamic Library in the Al-Haram Al-Sharif (Window to the Islamic past).
Careful Arab scholars preserved both the Islamic, Roman, and Greek philosophies, medical discoveries, and histories of the past on scrolls. So while the Western world’s scholarly records were being luted and destroyed by barbarians from the north, the Arab world held our link to the past in their hands. We are lucky to have been able to retrieve them again from our Arab allies giving us a kick start into the modern world.
While on the Arabic program we gave the Islamic library located near the Dome of the Rock, a copy of one of the Islamic Translation series. In the library alcove old texts written on scrolls are stacked on shelves and fitted into compartments. I felt a deep respect and honor for the glorious Islamic past and its contribution to the world as I looked at those scrolls. (For further reading on this topic, you can find information in many historical studies. Here is one to start you off. History of the Arabs; Revised: 10th Edition by Philip Hitti. Look at chapter 27.)
Are there places that make history come alive for you?
See other posts in the series:
Part III: “Cairo as an Arabic Student: Mosques and Trains”
Cairo Part II: “Cairo for the first time with an Argentine Flair”
Jerusalem: Romance April 8, 2009
Posted by bookncurls in A Comment, Middle East.Tags: Brigham Young University, BYU Jerusalem Center, Israeli, Jerusalem, Jews, romance
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Imagine the auditorium of Brigham Young University’s Jerusalem Center atop Mount Scopus or Jebel Attur. The lighting is soft. The floors and stage are of a light polished wood. Behind you rises a massive pipe organ. Before you is a wall of glass looking into the night at the ancient city of Jerusalem lighted. The gold tint of the Dome of the Rock, the churches, and synagogues rise above the walls. The holy mount on which it’s perched is dark.
Sunday nights on this stage various musicians perform a free concert. The music further mystifies the scene. BYU students could attend if there was room and I tried as often as possible to see the view. I was also intrigued by the Israelis that came. They seemed present, concious, educated, well dressed.
One night an Israeli couple sat a few rows in front of me. He loved her, from my vantage point at least. You could tell by the way he looked at and treated her. She loved him, too I believe, from the way she conversed softly with him. But beyond a beautiful love scene there was something about them that changed my perception on life. They didn’t seem to wear education or sophistication on their sleave but they were talking about interesting intelligent things. Jews as a people value learning and opinions. I decided I wanted that, too.
I watched the Israelis slowly leave the Center after the concert was over. Is it any wonder I fell in love with Jerusalem when it was falling in love with me? Or maybe that’s just what I think when the city is so beautiful not just on the outside but its love on the inside, too.
See other posts in the series:
Part III: “Cairo as an Arabic Student: Mosques and Trains”
Cairo Part II: “Cairo for the first time with an Argentine Flair”
Jerusalem: Snapshots April 8, 2009
Posted by bookncurls in A Comment, Middle East.Tags: Jerusalem, Middle Eastern Cities, Passover
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Today as the sun goes down and Passover begins, I want to dedicate my next few posts in the Middle Eastern Cities series to Jerusalem. If you are unaware, I’ve been highlighting Middle Eastern cities. Please take the poll if you haven’t already. Jerusalem is now tied with Damascus for cities in which people are most interested. Damascus was highlighted by three people that have illuminated the city for me. Cairo came in 4 parts.
Now Jerusalem. I would like to do Jerusalem in snap shots. I have lived in Jerusalem for a total of a year at 3 different times but my whole life has revolved around Jerusalem in one way or another. It is most definitely the Middle Eastern city closest to my heart.
Take a look at my new About page. I have updated it to explain a little as to why I choose to write what I write on this blog.
See previous posts in the series:
Part III: “Cairo as an Arabic Student: Mosques and Trains”
Cairo Part II: “Cairo for the first time with an Argentine Flair”
Gaza December 31, 2008
Posted by bookncurls in A Comment, Middle East.Tags: Arabic, East Jerusalem, Gaza, Jerusalem, Palestine, West Bank
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People have been suffering in Gaza for a long time with water shortages and random border closings, etc. It’s been a difficult place to live for a long time; most of it is covered in refugee camps. The Palestinians that live there seem different to me than the ones I meet in the West Bank and East Jerusalem. There is an Arabic song that some of the Palestinian teenagers wrote recently through the help of a group called Sabreen located in Jerusalem. West Bank teenagers were writing songs about their lives but a boy named Muhammed was not able to participate except over the internet because he lived in Gaza. They put together a song in honor of him about Gaza being like a prison. That was before all the recent attacks.
What I think is most interesting is how warm and welcoming the people of Gaza were to me and my friends when we visited prior to 9/11. A family invited us into their home and the women who wore the black burkas from head to toe let us try them on in their homes. At that moment looking at myself in the mirror with a black burka in Gaza I felt very honored and felt a connection to the people there.
I hope the people there will find peace.
Middle Eastern Cities Poll November 17, 2008
Posted by bookncurls in Middle East.Tags: Baghdad, Cairo, Casablanca, Cities, Damascus, Dubai, Jerusalem, Middle East
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City of Oranges: An Intimate History of Arabs and Jews in Jaffa November 15, 2008
Posted by bookncurls in Middle East.Tags: Adam LeBor, Israel, Jaffa, Jerusalem, Palestine
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City of Oranges is a book by Adam LeBor that I am reading for my Middle Eastern Cities course at the University of Utah. So here’s the funny part. I take this class, right, so I can learn about other places in the Middle East besides Israel/Palestine. (I have now lived in Jerusalem for almost a year at three different times.) Of course Jerusalem is on the list of cities we are studying but there were other cities as well. So I get really excited to learn about the rest of the Middle East and then they hand me the books for the course and I discover that City of Oranges is a book about Jaffa, Palestine/Israel. (I’m going to use both terms because I’m in a pretty precarious position politically with either word.) Yes, there are other books but not as long and extensive. But, I am pleasantly suprised to find this book to be rather neutral between the Arab and Jewish sides and I highly reccomend it.
What is almost incomprehensible to me is that although Israel has been a part of my life since I was born, I’ve always seen the Middle East as my grandparents’ and extended family thing. My thing was Asia–I grew up in Japan and lived in Taiwan respectivly for 7 years.
My first trip to Israel was at 18 mostly to see all the places my grandparents always talked about. (They directed the Jerusalem Center for Near Eastern Studies on Mount Scopus through Brigham Young University off and on for several years and took many tours to the area.) Every year on my birthday my grandma tells me the story of how she called all the hospitals to find out where my mom had me so she could wish my mother well before heading for Tel Aviv.
I remember loading on the bus after my 5 months in Jerusalem at 18 to go home. Lots of the students were being nostalgic, a couple had tears in their eyes. I looked back at the city and said to myself, “That was nice. Now it’s time for a trip to Asia.” I had made the trip to see my grandparents’ legacy. Now it was over.
But a year and a half later, people kept telling me I should go back to study Arabic there. What in the bazookas, I thought? I can’t take another spiceless/American food meal at the Jerusalem Center. But feeling like it was important, I went again. The second time I left the Middle East from Cairo, sick, tired and happy it was over. I went to Taiwan a month later.
So I went back to Jerusalem again this past summer for a Palestinian view point of the land. By now Jerusalem isn’t so much a tourist place for me as it is a second home. People know me and my grandparents and my aunt and uncle and my cousins. I speak a little Arabic now–ok, I even teach Arabic. It’s a much different place than when I was 18.
And even though I’m trying to learn about the rest of the Middle East–and I am to a certain extent–I am reading a book called City of Oranges and learning about how Arabs and Jews interact in Israel/Palestine. And today, I went to my class and was presented with yes, yet another trip to Israel. I probably won’t go on this one, though…although it would be cool. This trip would be a Jewish tour….hmmmm. No. Impossible. But the more I walk away from it, the more it seems to come back into my life. Maybe the Middle East/Palestine/Israel isn’t just my grandparents’ thing. As obvious as it may seem to anyone else, I’m having a hard time admitting that.
More Pics August 12, 2008
Posted by bookncurls in Middle East.Tags: Israel, Jerusalem, Palestine
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Learning Arabic Abroad May 14, 2008
Posted by bookncurls in Middle East.Tags: Arabic, Jerusalem, Palestine, Relief International
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Four of my students and I will be going to Palestine/Israel this summer to learn Arabic. We will be staying in Jerusalem. I am very excited. I want to speak Arabic better. When I was there before I studied Arabic but I feel that I’ve learned so much since that time that I am hoping the language will be easier to understand and more accessible for me. The students are very excited as well. We have been talking to the Palestinian students through a program called Relief International over an internet site. It’s been a lot of fun. Our local paper covered the story in a recent article on my “In the News” page or also in a post below. I have family there now as well.
Orthodoxy in Jerusalem

A boy getting ready to throw a paper airplane.
Aunt JoAnn explaining the ancient city during the Christian period.
Jerusalem: Besieged April 25, 2009
Posted by bookncurls in A Comment, Middle East.Tags: Armenian Quarter, British Mandate, Christians, Jerusalem, Jordan, life, Old City, Ottomon Empire, passports
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An old Turkish tailor has a shop in the Armenian quarter of the Old City. If you turn right then left and walk a few paces…in other words, it’s hard to find. The stones of Jerusalem’s walls differ from base to height reflecting the seiges of past conquerers and the life of a man can reflect the seiges, too. I discovered this in a man of this tidy tailor’s shop.
He told a longer story but I’ll skip to the part when he opened the drawer of the desk where he sat. He pulled out 5 passports he used all living in the same city, Jerusalem. First, his Turkish passport under the Ottomon Empire which originally brought his father to settle in the city. Then his British Mandate passport. Then his Jordanian passport issued when Jordan controlled the greater part of the West Bank and Jerusalem. Fourth, his Israeli passport he uses as a citizen of the current state. And last, his Palestinian identification card because he is non-Jew. Most of these passports are still active.
What will a man of 5 nationalities say about Jerusalem? Maybe it’s not a surprise. He respects those who govern but believes it short sighted of those who think they possess. And when he sees Jews and Muslims fighting over the city, he wonders about the Christians of whom he is one. Is it not a Christian city also?
I think life is just as hodge podge as Jerusalem’s walls. We are besieged by life’s experiences and then we conquer and become the culmination of many realities.
See other posts in the series:
Jerusalem: Windows
Jerusalem: Romance
Jerusalem: Snapshots
Cairo PIV: Reconciliation
Part III: “Cairo as an Arabic Student: Mosques and Trains”
Cairo Part II: “Cairo for the first time with an Argentine Flair”
Cairo Part I: “Pre-Cairo, My Aunty”
Damascus
Middle Eastern Cities Poll